Wetsuit

The stitching is often overlooked, when one is wetsuit shopping. High quality wetsuit stitching is expensive, but it can have a huge impact on overall wetsuit performance. The basic construction of a wetsuit is not all that different when compared to normal everyday clothing. A wetsuit is made out of half dozen or more carefully measured pieces of neoprene that are precisely sewn together. Sometimes the seams are also glued and taped, but the basic construction idea is the same as regular cotton poly clothing.

The most elementary type of stitching used in wetsuits is called “overlock” stitching. This stitching is exactly the same as what you will find in most of your clothing. If you have a cotton sweater or tee shirt, look at the stitching. You will notice that the outside of a seam is very smooth. There will be nothing but a line showing where the two pieces of material come together. However, if you look at the inside of the same seam you will see the stitching. The material will be overlapped and stitched together. This causes a fairly large ridge on the inside the length of the seam.

Overlock stitched wetsuits are strong and durable. However, the inside ridge makes them uncomfortable and reduces the insulation value of the wetsuit. Many wetsuit experts feel that overlock stitching is obsolete and should not be used for wetsuits. Occasionally you will see it used in less expensive suits but for the most part better types of stitching are used today.

The next best stitching for wetsuits is called “flatlock” stitching. The neoprene does not over lap at all in flatlock stitching. Instead, the edges of the material are glued and butted together. Then the seam is sewn together to reinforce the glued seam. Because the neoprene does not overlap anywhere the finished seam is very smooth. There is no bulge or ridge, so the wetsuit is comfortable and skin tight to maximize insulation. The only drawback with this type of stitching is the thread goes all the way through the neoprene. This means there will be small needle holes all along the seams. This may not seem like a big deal but if you are trying to stay warm in cold water, every hole in the wetsuit can make a big difference.

To help combat this problem the very best wetsuits use what is called “blindstitching”. The material is glued and butted together the same as with flatlock stitching. However, the stitching does not go all the way through the material. The thread goes part way in, then over to the other piece of neoprene - and then comes back out the same side it went in. Curved needles are used similar to what a surgeon will use for sutures. There are no needle holes that go all the way through the wetsuit. This makes the inside of the wetsuit even smoother, because the only place there is stitching is on the outside. The very best wetsuits will also use tape on the inside of the seam to make it even stronger.

Almost all high-end wetsuits will use blindstitching, or a variation of it. Sometimes it is called GBS (glued and blindstitched). Occasionally it is also called “Strobel stitching”, which refers to a brand of sewing machine used for blindstitching. Double blindstitching is sometimes used on very thick wetsuits. This means there is blindstitching on both the inside and outside of the wetsuit.